Tuesday, May 12, 2009

Para La Familia Batres






Estas son fotos de la coronaciòn de nuestra reina de la fiestas patronales de 2009, Carolina Batres. Saludos.

Friday, March 13, 2009

Festival de Maiz (Corn Festival)






A very cool activity this past Wednesday. Here's some picture and I'll put up more pictures and a story next week.

Saturday, February 14, 2009

Trying not to fall of the volcano

The community of Las Trancas is nestled at the base of a dormant volcano. From the first day I arrived here, I knew that I would need to climb the volcano before I leave. Two weeks ago I finally did it. Never again.

I have hiked part way up the volcano on three separate occasions before my most recent ascent, but because of the groups I went with (younger kids or older adults), I always knew we would not reach anywhere near the top. And we didn’t; in fact, before two weeks ago I had not even reached the midpoint of the volcano. So when on a Thursday night Chino came to my house to tell me that the next morning a group of people were setting to summit the Usulutan Volcano, I knew I had to cancel whatever plans I had and join them.

We left at 5:30 on a Friday morning. A good group consisting of “Chino”, the Sherpa—strong and athletic; “Moncho,” offered constant moral support; “La Pipa,” provided comedic relief when it was most needed; “Gallo”, the Don, the decision maker; and “El Gringo”—more comedic relief but more for my blunders than my jokes. Amongst us, we carried 4 machetes, 4 slingshots, 1 pistol, a pot to cook in, water, expectations to reach the top and hopes to come across an iguana, rabbit, or armadillo to cook on the mountain. Also we carried a 30 foot rope which should have served as a fair warning to me, but of course it did not.

The first few hors of the hike were pleasant enough. The trail was steep but it was a trail nonetheless. At about 9:00 we stopped to make coffee over an open fire and eat bread, tortillas, and beans. Feeling replenished, we set off again in high spirits. Almost immediately, the trail abruptly ended. We hiked or way into a overgrown wash. We continued stumbling over rocks and through brush with the idea that if we were going up, we must be going in the right direction. Though difficult, there was still no danger graver than a scratch from an overhanging tree branch or a banged shin by a loose rock. That is, until we reached a 15 foot wall of rock.

It came out of nowhere and there was no going around it. We sat for a minute, laughed uneasily, and then decided there was nowhere to go but up. Chino took his machete and chopped down a nearby tree. We chopped off the branches leaving us with a 15 foot log. The log was placed up against the rock wall and Chino shimmied his way up the log to the top of the cliff. From there, he tied the rope to a tree at the top and the rest of us proceeded to climb the cliff using the rope as support. Scary, but not too big of a deal.

At the top of the cliff we were greeted with another, only this one was twice the size of the first. Once again, we felled a tree and placed it up against the rock wall. The biggest tree we could find only reached about half way up the cliff. So Chino, in an impressive feat of mountaineering shimmied up the tree for 15 feet and then rock-climbed the remaining 25 feet of the cliff. From the top he called down to us that there was nowhere to tie the rope to and he was just going to wrap it around his wrists and hold it as we climbed up the cliff. Looking at Gallo’s 6 foot 210 pound frame I called up that I didn’t think that was such a great idea. Chino was offended that I didn’t have confidence in him. Now as people who have visited me here know, I will go to great lengths not to offend Salvadorans. I have eaten food that I don’t like until I’m on the verge of getting sick, I have sat through 4 hour nighttime evangelical church services, and most recently I scaled a 40 foot cliff using a rope attached to nothing but Chino in order not to offend Salvadorans. If anyone from Peace Corps is reading this, I think I deserve an award.

Reaching the top, we all breathed a sigh of relief to be safely on a 45 degree slant as oppose to a 90 degree one. Now, about ¾ of the way to the top, there was nowhere to go but up, up, up. This last stretch got steeper, more overgrown, and the dirt and rocks were much looser. As we neared the peak we were scrambling on all fours dodging rocks, branches, and at one point a machete that was dropped by on of my partners ahead of me. With steep slopes on either side of me, there was no dodging falling debris, the best I could do was shield myself with my backpack. It was just a ridiculous, dangerous comedy of errors. Myself, La Pipa, and Gallo, knowing that going down was going to be even more dangerous than coming up, had decided enough was enough. Moncho and Chino, having heard that there was an easier trail on the other side of the volcano, wanted to get to the top, descend the volcano on the easier trail and take a bus back to the community from the other side of the mountain. The prospect of not having to climb down the steep, slippery part of the volcano we were currently on and the two cliffs we had scaled earlier was appealing to everyone, but eventually decided it was better to start heading down rather than facing the treacherous 50 vertical feet that remained to the top.

Going down is when we really started to realize the situation we had gotten ourselves into. Any misstep or slide would not be easily corrected and would result in at best, some very serious injuries very high up on a mountain. So very slowly we began or descent. We walked in the crab position, on all fours and looking upward so that if we started to slide we could sit down and drag or hands and hopefully stop ourselves. It was at this point that I heard La Pipa mention his three kids. I think we all, except maybe Chino, were thinking similarly—we could die if we fall.

We reached a spot of relatively level ground where we stopped to eat some more bread, beans, and tortillas. The mood was rather different from our first meal as we were all thinking about the cliffs that still awaited us.

After eating, we set off again. As we neared the rock walls, we searched for more manageable ways down. Not finding any, we planned how to climb down. The first one was the big one. The rope only reached 30 of the 40 feet down. We decided cut down a tree, tied it to the rope, and lowered it so touched the ground and leaned against the cliff. Moncho went down first. He lowered himself down the first 30 feet using the rope that was supported again by Chino. He shimmied down the tree for the last 10 feet and let out a yelp of relief. Next went Gallo, then La Pipa, and finally, it was my turn. I’m certain I was pale as could be and my hands were shaking. I have never been in a situation where I had to do something so dangerous with no other options. I don’t think I was being overdramatic in thinking I might die. And I wish I could say I was confident in my own physical abilities (heck, Chino wasn’t scared and he had to climb down after all of us and without the help of the rope) but I was definitely not. Very slowly and very cautiously I made it down without problems.

When Chino made it down without problems, the change in the mood of the group was night and day. Even though the 15 foot cliff was still in front of us, the worst was behind. Once again, at the risk of sounding overdramatic, I think we were all ecstatic to be alive. The rest of the way down was filled with constant talking, joking, and laughing.

I choose not to drink in my community due to a prevalence of alcoholism and a stigma placed on those who drink by those who don’t—a stigma that would hinder my work here. However, heading back to the community, I suggested we stop at a small restaurant to drink a few beers. I have rarely felt more close to a group of people than I did at that restaurant drinking those beers and talking about our adventure. Leaving the restaurant, we decided to sit under a huge mango tree as the sun was going down. It was mostly silent except for the occasional contented sigh which really said it all.

Friday, February 13, 2009

Trying not to fall off the volcano

I had written a blog at home and saved it on my USB drive to post, but for some reason it didn't save. I'll have to resave it from my computer at home and post it next time I'm on the internet. In the meantime, enjoy the pictures from my adventure.






Thursday, December 11, 2008

Development

''If you have come to help me, you are wasting your time. But if you have come because your liberation is bound up with mine, then let us work together.''

-Aboriginal Activist Group, Queensland, 1970's



Technically, Peace Corps is a development organization. In reality it is much more (and much less) than a traditional development organization, but nonetheless, the work can be classified under the surprisingly broad term ‘development.’


I’ve been doing a lot of reading and thinking about what exactly development is and what it should be and it has been somewhat depressing. Mostly I come across methods of development that I think are terrible. I have yet to come across a development theory or practice that I am 100% comfortable with. More and more it seems to me that development is not something that can be done from the outside (rich countries helping poor countries), but rather something that needs to be homegrown. But the idea of not doing anything is also uncomfortable to me.


The first problem I have with development is the word itself. To me, it implies a sense of superiority. The development organization from the rich country is going to develop the backward ways of the poor. We are developed and we know what that means and we are going to show you (or make you) like us. It is worrisome that a word so widely used is so rarely defined. MORE ON THIS…NOT YET CONVINCING


It seems to me that development is too often something that is done to or for a community rather than something that is done by or with the community itself. A perfect example of this happened in my community yesterday.


WorldVision is a global development organization that works a lot in my municipality. I admittedly don’t know much about their funding or their goals or mission, but in my community they work mostly on projects with youth and with small-scale farmers.


So yesterday I was playing dominos with a couple of my neighbors when a guy from my community came by to tell me that there were a bunch of Koreans at Chepe Malo’s house. Foreigners (and Koreans at that) are a very rare thing for a small Salvadoran community, so like my neighbors, I had to go check it out. Turns out, a group of young-adult Koreans were bringing my community silos to store grain. Apparently the silos had to be painted to help prevent rust, and this is what was going on at Chepe Malo’s house.


So this is a good thing right? I’m not so sure. First off, there was absolutely no interaction between Koreans and Salvadorans. When I showed up, a few of the Koreans were interested in talking English with me, but I didn’t see any trying to converse with Salvos. How might a Salvadoran see this? I’m guessing they would see that people from rich, powerful countries really only care to interact with each other. I’m also guessing that this sounds absurd to some of you reading this, but I promise you, the inferiority complex here in El Salvador runs deeper than we can imagine. There was a language barrier for sure, but a smile or nod or any sort of non-verbal communication that expresses interest and friendship would have really went a long way. I saw none of that. There were about 10 silos, 2 of which were being painted by groups of 10 Koreans laughing and talking amongst themselves and 8 of which were being painted by Salvadorans working quietly. And not just quietly, but shyly—in their own community. Doesn’t seem right to me.


Another problem. The Koreans came with a police escort. There are 6 police officers in my entire municipality, I can count the number of times I have seen police in my community on one hand, and this group brought 2 officers for security. What sort of message does this send to a community that prides itself on being calm and safe? I had 3 people ask me why they had security with them. It’s a good question and I really had no answer.


Who were these Koreans? A Salvadoran representative from WorldVision told me that they were children of donors to WorldVision. So, in order to please the donors, WorldVision El Salvador has to escort donors’ children and show them all the people they are helping (developing? saving? converting?). Also, the silos. Where they really needed? They were and are appreciated, but I bet, if it were really researched within my community, people would have preferred the money to go to other projects. So then it seems to me, that in this example of development, more concern was placed on the ‘developers’ than the ‘developees.’ I think that his visit had the potential to do more harm than good. Maybe it did. And I’m not so sure this is an isolated incident in the world of development.


Also, this same day, I had a conversation with a Salvadoran who works for WorldVision. He asked me what sort of projects I’m doing in my community. I told him that I work in the school and that I helped start a bakery, and I mentioned a few other things. He immediately honed in on the bakery and asked me how many beneficiaries. This is very popular development jargon. Essentially, it is believed that the more beneficiaries, the better the project it. It is complete BS. If I buy a bag of Skittles and give one apiece to 50 people, I can claim that there were 50 beneficiaries. I can publish that result in a newsletter to donors. Donors can see that by only spending 1 dollar, I have helped 50 people. My organization must be well-run and deserves their donations.


The system is broken. I am nowhere close to a solution (nor are people a lot smarter than me). But it seems to me that the biggest problem is one of priorities. Development agencies aim to please their donors. I’m not saying that they don’t truly wish to help the poor, but their first concern is funding. I don’t know if agencies can be faulted for that. Without funding, they can’t exist. However, how can we expect… and I don’t know where to go from here—will probably just keep going in circles—but I’ve been meaning to put a blog post up for a while now and this is something I’ve been thinking about a lot lately. I’m planning on keeping a running dialogue (with myself or with my huge audience on the World Wide Web) on my thoughts about this topic. Cheers, and enjoy the pictures below. Actually, no pictures below...just realized I didn't put them on my